mù_lab. is an experimental attempt that delves deeper into Kimura's unique ideas than the regular mù_ items.
The product being announced this time is the fourth in the series, " CURVED LINE TROUSERS / mù_lab.#004".
The CURVED LINE TROUSERS , which were released in January and positioned as "smart slacks" within the brand, will take on a different look over time, and with further customization, they will become a personal item that will remain in your wardrobe for a long time.
This item was created with that story in mind, but of course it is not simply made to look vintage by simply expressing dirt and damage.
The colours were carefully selected to blend in with the brand's worldview, and while they make good use of the elegance of the original CURVED LINE TROUSERS, they also exude a tasteful look, making them a special item that will look good not only with previous mù_ items, but also with items to be developed in the future.
Furthermore, the artwork printed and embroidered on the back right hem expresses Kimura's approach to manufacturing; while it is by no means assertive, the interesting thing about it is that it subtly exudes a personal atmosphere, making it a unique piece from mù_lab. , which incorporates experimental elements.
-mù_lab.What kind of items are in the 4th edition?
Kimura: The idea behind this item is to use the fabric and design of the CURVED LINE TROUSERS that were released in January as a base, and transform it into something completely different through processing and other methods.
-Are the fabrics, designs, silhouettes, etc. all the same?
Kimura: That's right.
This is an experimental item that shows how the original item can be made to look different by processing and tinkering with it.
The CURVED LINE TROUSERS , which went on sale in January, were an approach taken to create stylish slacks by taking advantage of the firmness and luster of the Westpoint fabric. However, I wanted to express the feeling that the pants would acquire a certain weightiness due to dirt and creases over time.
-Do they do any processing to make it look vintage?
Kimura: When you think of vintage, you might imagine something earthy, like dirt or damage, but we didn't include those elements this time.
Of course, to express the changes that occur over time, the leather may appear slightly dirty or have a worn-in appearance, but this is based on the premise that the elegant luster of the West Point leather is still being utilized.
The image I have in mind is something like a story of something that was originally a tailored item, like those you see in European vintage clothing, but which naturally becomes vintage clothing as it is worn lovingly over the years.
-What colours did you use to express this?
In order to make the most of the original sand beige color, we dyed it in a light gray on top of that color.
Rather than simply being a dirty color, it looks somewhat dirty depending on how you look at it.
The fabric is originally shiny and soft, so we took great care in choosing the grey colour to take advantage of this characteristic and create a slightly uneven appearance.
I think it has an indescribable, exquisite color that changes its atmosphere considerably depending on the amount of light and the items you pair it with.
-What are the features other than the color?
Kimura: The artwork is printed and embroidered on the hem of the right leg.
- Until now, the brand has not expressed artwork like this.
Kimura: mù_lab.So it's a bit of an experimental attempt, or a playful idea.
As I mentioned earlier, I came up with the story of how a pretty item that you've loved and worn for many years naturally takes on a vintage feel, and then by adding your own pictures to it and customising it into a more personal piece, it can be worn in a completely different way than before.
I hope that by doing so I can express that a love for clothes is born again.
-What is the significance of this artwork?
Kimura: I wrote this while thinking about what it would be like to express my thoughts on manufacturing in visual form. I wasn't originally planning on including it in the products, but I came up with the idea of including this artwork while I was planning this item.
This drop-like thing I'm holding in my hand is my idea.
At first glance, this painting looks as if the hand is holding a drop, or as if the hand is about to drop it.
This truly represents the concept of addition and subtraction that I value.
For example, with the items this time, I incorporated the idea of expressing the changes that occur over time into existing items, but from the various elements involved in achieving this, I picked out and removed any harsh elements such as dirt or damage.
My idea is to come up with and draw from ideas in this way to create clothes that are somehow unique.
Not just with this item, but all my creations start with adding and subtracting from sources of inspiration such as materials, references, and things I have done in the past.
When we think of ideas, we tend to focus on the positive act of "adding," and it can be easier to actually add ideas, but the idea of "subtracting," or taking away elements that are already there, is also an important idea.
The brand mù_ values this balance of addition and subtraction, especially subtraction.
-It 's not just a simple print.
Kimura: A print alone would be monotonous, so the drops are embroidered.
While there are various techniques for the print itself, we focused on creating a more hand-drawn feel.
The embroidery is also done by hand, not by machine.
The finished product is then unraveled and a technique called hand embroidery, which was used on old Sukajan jackets, is used on it, and each piece is actually slightly different.
The fact that it incorporates traditional techniques unique to Japan is a very important feature of this item.
- The coloring and artwork are not overly bold.
Kimura: The important thing is to make sure the product is immersed in the brand's worldview.
As with the items we have released so far, we are paying close attention to the compatibility with the items we plan to release in the future.
In particular, when it comes to color, I have used grayish brown and smoky pink in the past, and it goes very well with those colors.
Furthermore, color will be an important point in the future development of the brand.
This does not simply mean making them colorful, but rather a development of colors that express the world of mù_ . However, we are also considering how these will work with upcoming items, so we hope you will enjoy that as well.
-What do you particularly like about it?
Kimura: I really like the color, especially the way it creasing.
As the leather ages, the puckered edges will wear away and the color will fade.
However, this is similar in that the peaks are light and the valleys are dark, but in fact it is because the dye has accumulated in the valleys that they appear darker, and the peaks are the normal color of the fabric.
It may be a bit niche, but I think I've been able to achieve my aim of making it look like it has aged properly, but is also out of the ordinary.
The next thing is the artwork.
My thoughts about manufacturing are put into this product, so I would be happy if you could sympathize with that way of thinking.
CURVED LINE TROUSERS / mù_lab.#004
Colour: WASHED SAND BEIGE
Size: S/M/L/XL
Price: ¥41,800
▼Product page here
CURVED LINE TROUSERS / mù_lab.#004