The brand name mù_ comes from designer Kimura's childhood nickname, but it actually has another meaning.
" Nothing " = "Neutral"
This is embodied in Kimura's belief that "my job is like drawing the outline for a coloring book, and the final coloring depends on the customer's hobbies, tastes, and lifestyle."
That is why mù_ 's items appear simple at first glance, even though they are packed with unique ideas that amaze even craftsmen and an uncompromising attention to detail.
However, Kimura is also adept at "transforming fabrics."
Up until now, he has created unique clothing by transforming ordinary, everyday fabrics.
Kimura's greatest strengths are his unique ideas, his knowledge of the processing required to realize them, and above all, his connections with craftsmen who are interested in his ideas and willing to cooperate with him.
The four items in the GRAYSCALE COLLECTION being released this time express Kimura's other weapon, processing, in a more visible way than previous mù_ items.
When we think of processing, we tend to imagine something unusual, such as distressing or embroidery, but the clothes in this collection do not have a harsh appearance.
Kimura's sense of balance, which is only possible because he has been exposed to many different processing techniques, has resulted in items that are carefully designed to blend into the world of mù_ , making it a collection that gives depth to the brand.
-About the upcoming GRAYSCALE COLLECTION
Kimura: Ever since I started the brand, I wanted to incorporate the ideas of processing, which is my specialty.
LOOPÉ , the brand that preceded mù_ , didn't really put processed items at the forefront, and mù_, which took over from there, hasn't done much of it either until now. On the other hand, in my career, I've been making processed items for a longer period of time.
In that sense, just as I am good at making use of fabrics, as I have done with LOOPÉ and mù_ up until now, I am also good at processing and transforming fabrics.
When we started mù_, it was important to us to follow the world view of LOOPÉ , so we came up with items along that line, but now I felt like adding some variation to the flat world of mù_ , so we decided to incorporate processed items.
However, rather than making dramatic changes that would make it stand out from the brand's worldview, the changes have been made to fit in with the brand's world.By bringing this together in the form of a collection, we have expressed the image that the mù_ brand will become a brand with a broader scope and depth than LOOPÉ .
-What items?
Kimura: There are four items: a blouson, black denim, a knit, and a T- shirt.
Of these, the blouson and T- shirt are being developed by mù_lab. and will only be sold in stores.
-Where did the name GRAYSCALE come from?
Kimura: The name GRAYSCALE was added later. (laughs)
A while ago, we shot the key visual for the first time, and during the meeting the photographer and I came up with the idea of shooting it in monochrome, with an image like an old magazine.
I also like that kind of atmosphere, and when I see a monochrome photo it makes me imagine colors.
So, by shooting in monochrome this time, people who see it can imagine what colors they see.
But in reality, even though the colors are there, the clothes remain monochrome, which disappoints, but I think that's interesting.
I guess it was while thinking about these things that the word GRAYSCALE came to mind.
-As the names suggest, all four items are based on a monochrome color scheme, but what are your preferences for color?
Kimura: The grayscale is made up of 256 shades of gray from white to black, but when you actually line up all the black T- shirts in your home, you'll see that they're all subtly different colors.
That's how profound the color black is, and when I try to express black, I pursue that hue to the fullest.
All four items this time have been processed to give them a slightly worn and worn look, and when viewed as a whole collection they have a similar atmosphere and color expression.
However, that doesn't mean that they are all processed in the same way; each item is made from a different material, with different thread thicknesses and weaving methods, and each one is processed differently to suit its own needs.
Even when trying to achieve the same atmosphere and color, the dyes, dyeing methods and washing methods are all different for each item, and the GRAYSCALE COLLECTION is created by making repeated adjustments and calculating even the smallest hidden ingredients.
-When I hear "processed items," I imagine something more vintage-like.
Kimura: It's true that the damage, creases, and fading that give it a vintage look are easy to see, so the image may be drawn to that.
It's difficult to explain in detail, but the processing can be broad, including washing, dyeing, distressing, printing, and more, and there are various techniques for each.
When it comes to cuisine, there are many genres such as Japanese, Chinese, Italian, and French, and each has various cooking methods and techniques.
Even if the same ingredients are used, depending on the genre and cooking method, the dish can be light, rich, or showy in appearance.
The same goes for processing; what I do varies greatly depending on the image of what I want to create, and processing doesn't just mean making something look like vintage clothing.
-What did you pay attention to when processing this GRAYSCALE COLLECTION ?
Kimura: Don't overdo it.
After all, the first premise is the world view of mù_ .
By adding a lot of processing, it is possible to make it look more vintage-like or have a harder look, and I don't dislike that in itself, but if there's no affinity with the mù_ world view, or the items that have been released up until now, it will create a backlash and stand out when viewed as a brand.
Our customers have all different styles and tastes, and we aim to make clothes that will gently blend into their lifestyles and closets. So if we overdo it, it goes against the values of the brand.
So, don't overdo it.
As I add and subtract various elements, including processing, to create what I want to create and express, what I value most is the sense of subtraction.
It's easy to just keep adding, but the difficult part is deciding what to subtract.
I am always conscious of that balance, and with this brand in particular, sometimes I get closer to my ideal by deliberately leaving some things out.
-So you can't finish it?
Kimura: Exactly. It gives the wearer the opportunity to develop the piece.
We could have gone all out and said that we've perfectly recreated the vintage look, and that would be cool in itself, but that's not what we're doing with this collection.
Compared to our previous items, these pieces have a slightly worn look, but we are conscious of allowing each wearer to enjoy the personal feel and changes that occur over time as they are worn.
I thought that by doing so I could express what I value most about this brand: "clothes that are complete for the person wearing them."
-Does it go well with previous mù_ items?
Kimura: That's right.
In fact, I hope that when combined with previous mù_ items, they will look different from each other.
For example, easy trousers are an item that looks a little elegant, but I think they will look different if you combine them with a blouson. The overall atmosphere can change depending on the color of the easy trousers .
Black will give it a classy look, grayish brown will give it a more vintage feel, and charcoal will make it look like it's part of the GRAYSCALE COLLECTION and blend in.
So I think it would be interesting if these items were to be added to your wardrobe, and make the clothes you've owned before look a little different.
- Why did you decide to separate the items into regular items and the in-store only items called mù_lab. ?
Kimura: mù_lab. is a place within the brand where we carry out experimental endeavors.
In that sense, the items that fit the bill this time were the blouson and T-shirt.
As for knitting, it's actually a process I've done once before.
I really like that knit and still wear it often, but this time I have updated it.
So I had an almost exact image of what the finished product would look like.
As for the black denim, denim is an item I specialize in, and since I had already created a shape, I created it knowing that with this design, this material, and this processing, it would have a certain look.
On the other hand, with this blouson and T -shirt I used processes that I have never done before, so there were parts where I couldn't imagine how the final product would turn out, and that's why I consider them experimental items.
-A brief introduction to each item
Kimura: The knit is made of cotton, but it goes through a special bleaching process that brings out different shades of color, and we've put in a lot of effort to bring out those shades to the fullest.
So I think it looks interesting, and the colors are dyed, dyed, and then dyed again as a finishing touch, resulting in an exquisite range of colors.
The black denim is pin tuck denim trousers , a style that is also used in indigo, but we have added a crease that brings out the design and deliberately did not add a worn-in look.
As you wear it, it will become an item that you will want to grow with.
I wanted to incorporate a slightly sporty element into the blouson, so I used 100 % nylon fabric, but at first glance it looks like a worn cotton blouson. That's the processing, but the silhouette, which is calculated to give it a rounded look, makes it something you won't find anywhere else.
The body of the T -shirt is dyed in a normal way to avoid it looking vintage, but the print is a cracking print that is prone to cracking.
They also crack during the final washing stage at the factory, so there are individual differences in the way they crack when they are delivered.
That's one of the reasons we only sell in-store, but we hope you'll come and take a look and find something that suits your taste.
I've posted a more detailed explanation on YouTube , so please take a look if you'd like ( laughs ).
GRAYSCALE COLLECTION
▼Product page here
GRAYSCALE SULFUR DYED OVERSIZE KNIT
Colour: CHARCOAL
Size: M/L/XL
Price: ¥33,000
GRAYSCALE PIN TUCK DENIM TROUSERS
Colour: BLACK
Size: S/M/L/XL
Price: ¥35,200
GRAYSCALE STAND COLLAR BLOUSON / mù_lab.#002
Colour: CHARCOAL
Size: M/L
Price: ¥57,200
GRAYSCALE CRACKING LOGO T / mù_lab.#003
Colour: BLACK
Size: M/L/XL
Price: ¥17,600