"Clothes are made from fabric."
It is based on designer Kimura's belief in clothing design. This is the concept of mù_ (Mu).
If we look at the words alone, This can be interpreted as clothes made from "good fabric."
but, Define it in mù_ " "Good fabric" does not simply mean high-quality fabric, but fabric that when Kimura sees and touches it, he can imagine the clothes he wants to make.
the " The brand's basic philosophy is to express simple yet "elegant oversized clothing that adults can wear" by focusing on silhouettes and details that make the most of "good quality fabrics."
On the other hand, Kimura is also skilled at applying various processes to fabrics, and with his unique ideas and knowledge, he has transformed fabrics to create many unique pieces of clothing.
mù_lab. is a company that brings Kimura's unique ideas to life through simple This is an experiment to make the brand blend into the world of mù_, and by deliberately adding a slight sense of incongruity, it gives the brand depth and profundity.
- What is mù_lab.?
Kimura: The brand mù_ is simple, yet focuses on materials and manufacturing that makes the most of those materials, placing emphasis on silhouette and comfort.
However, looking back at my experience so far, I haven't only made simple clothes.
By processing fabrics, I have made many interesting items, and I am also good at transforming fabrics, including my ideas.
It It was a bit of an experimental attempt to see if I could express the worldview of mù_ without destroying it. We named it mù_lab.
-What do you mean by transforming the fabric?
Kimura: For example, by deliberately damaging extremely high-quality fabric, or processing unremarkable fabric, we can transform the fabric into something completely different from its original appearance.
And by adding this processing, it becomes a more interesting and unique item.
-To date I assume the fabrics used in mù_'s items have also been processed to some extent?
Kimura: Regarding our previous items, we started with the idea of "elegant oversized clothing that adults can wear," and we would improve the texture of the fabric, enhance the drape, and otherwise make use of the quality of the fabric in order to pursue comfort and silhouette.
This is the future My thoughts on mù_ items are the same.
In response At mù_lab., we don't just make use of the quality of the dough, but as I mentioned earlier, we aim to transform the dough, so our approach is completely different.
mù_ items are complete once sewing is complete, mù_lab. then goes further and makes further adjustments, which adds more steps.
-That's what we've been doing up until now. Will it be something completely different from mù_?
Kimura: On the one hand, if you process things thoroughly, you can make something interesting, but on the other hand, This deviates from mù_'s worldview.
However, I still choose to create these experimental items because vintage clothing is an essential part of my background, or rather, a part of who I am, and I believe that by incorporating this element into the brand, I can express another aspect of the brand's individuality.
I think that people who like vintage clothing like me will find it interesting when they see it, and I think that customers who buy mù_ generally like a simple atmosphere, but there is also a playful element that even those people can incorporate into their designs.
The image is that on a table lined with dishes that have been thoroughly prepared to bring out the original flavor of the ingredients, there is one dish that has been prepared by adding some tweak to the ingredients, but that this is still a complete course meal.
So, just This item fits in with the world view of the mù_ brand.
- mù_ and Is the method of choosing fabrics the same at mù_lab.?
Kimura: No, that's not true.
When I saw and touched the fabric at the fabric store, I use items that give me the image of what I could create or what I would like to create within the world of mù_.
At mù_lab., I first have an idea in my head and then search for fabric to make it a reality.
So if I can't find the fabric, it may just remain an idea.
To me, there are two types of good fabrics: fabrics that allow you to imagine the clothes you want to make, and fabrics that can be transformed to bring your ideas to life.
-What are your particular preferences when it comes to processing?
Kimura: When I first went to a processing shop when I was young, I brought some of my old clothes as samples, and also photos to convey the general idea, and then I left the rest up to the craftsman.
But sometimes that doesn't result in the outcome you had in mind.
At times like that, even if I try to ask for corrections, saying "I'd like to do it a little more like this," and they say it's not possible, I end up giving up there because I don't understand anything myself.
I felt it was frustrating, but on the contrary, I found it interesting.
I wanted to be able to speak at the same level as these people as soon as possible, so I attended classes almost every year to study.
Thanks to that, we are now able to come up with a variety of ideas, and we have been able to build relationships with the craftsmen where they are interested in trying out our ideas.
There are trends in processing that correspond to what's selling in the world, but I like to create something that hasn't been done before, with the idea that if I apply this processing to this fabric, it will produce something interesting.
I want to try it and be amazed, and I also want to surprise the craftsmen.
I am challenging myself by consulting with craftsmen about things that I have never done before or things that were popular in the past but are no longer popular, and how to make them more modern.
-What kind of ideas will you come up with?
Kimura: I tried hitting denim with a hammer to make it shiny, using car exhaust to fade fabric, and even soaking T-shirts in water from an old well.
Also, because I wanted to do a Frankenstein-style remake, I tried replacing denim rivets with screws.
I also tried a lot of other unusual things.
When I come up with an idea, I'll go to a hardware store, try modifying it a bit myself, and then take it to a fabrication shop and say, "I want it like this."
-Won't the craftsmen be annoyed?
Kimura: I've been told that it makes craftsmen cry (laughs).
However, on the other hand, when the craftsmen work knowing what will happen when they process this fabric in this way, it can sometimes feel like a chore.
However, they have told me that when I go there and propose some unconventional ideas, it helps them switch to the mindset of creating something all at once, and it is inspiring for them.
Of course, the premise is that there is a long-standing relationship of trust. At mù_, we work with craftsmen who we have known for over 10 years.
-Is there anything you should be careful of when hiring a craftsman?
Kimura: When I meet with craftsmen I'm friendly with, we talk like middle school boys, saying things like, "There was something like this a long time ago," or "It would be fun if something like this existed," so it feels like an extension of playing around.
However, since I am not a craftsman, when I try to convey my image I try to only speak 80% of it.
The remaining 20% is where we want the craftsman to add their ideas and experience.
By doing so, I sometimes create things that are more interesting than I had imagined or that I had never even thought of.
But that's extremely difficult, and even if it's interesting, it's meaningless if it strays far from what you want to create.
In that sense, I need the sense, technique, and experience of the craftsmen who have been helping me for a long time and who understand me, not just the craftsmen who process the products. This is true of all of the craftsmen who cooperate with mù_ .
There is complete trust in that.
-That 's why Does mù_ insist on using Japanese fabrics, sewing, and processing?
Kimura: That's right.
If it's just a technical issue, there may be many skilled craftsmen overseas.
In fact, we have used many factories overseas.
However, when I try to materialize the ideas in my head, I can't create something that satisfies me unless I can convey the finer nuances.
That's why it's difficult unless you find Japanese craftsmen who are interested in your ideas and have a sensibility that can sympathize with them.
For example, when it comes to making denim, the craftsmen in Okayama, the fabric stores, and the sewing factories all make it while considering how it will be processed after that.
This is something that only professionals who have been working with denim for many years can do, and having had the opportunity to work with such craftsmen for so long has allowed me to build relationships with them where, even though each craftsman has their own specialised job, they are aware of my existence and create what I want to create with the same image in mind.
In that sense, rather than insisting on domestic production, I am particular about working with craftsmen whom I trust.
- You mentioned that mù_lab. is experimental, but does the experimentation only refer to processing?
Kimura: No, it's not limited to processing.
I would like to try out any ideas that come to mind, such as techniques or interesting gimmicks.
Regardless of current trends, I want to create things that seem unique, or functions that may seem useless at first glance but are actually quite useful, through playful means.
It's not an attempt to appeal to everyone, but it's an attempt to resonate with people who find it interesting.
- About mù_lab.'s first CLOWN PANTS
Kimura: This time it's fabric processing.
The leopard print fabric is dyed until the pattern is almost invisible.
I love leopard print, but if I were to simply create a leopard print item, it would stand out from the world of mù_.
How do I make a leopard print? I thought about how I could incorporate this into mù_.
When I first asked the dye factory to dye something with leopard print, the fabric they brought out still had a clear leopard print.
I think the dye factory's common sense would have been to make the most of the leopard print, but I wanted it to look like a solid color at first glance.
I asked the dye factory to dye it as much as possible, but they told me, "If you dye it any more, the pattern will no longer be visible."
From the dye factory's perspective, it goes without saying that it's just the bare minimum where the leopard pattern is visible.
My image is that I want the pattern to be dyed just enough so that it's barely visible, but it would be a problem if it was completely invisible (laughs).
The second time, it was almost invisible, but this time the black was too strong and I wanted a bit more red, so I asked for it to be done again.
-It must be hard on the craftsmen.
Kimura: I think they probably enjoyed it (laughs).
-Are there any special features of the fabric itself?
Kimura: The base material is back satin, so it has a distinctive slubby unevenness that runs horizontally.
It has a bit of an old-fashioned feel to it.
-The appearance changes depending on the light
Kimura: It's the same with light. For example, if you place a black item on top, the pattern will appear to pop out, and if you place a light color on top, it will appear solid.
So I think these pants can change up the look depending on your outfit.
-Why did you choose the style of CLOWN PANTS to use with this fabric?
Kimura: The fabric for the first CLOWN PANTS was a little thin, so this time I wanted to use a stiffer fabric to accentuate the thicker silhouette.
If you think about it, it seems obvious, but even if the shape is the same, the appearance will change if the fabric is different.
However, this fact is surprisingly often overlooked, so I hope you will enjoy that aspect as well.
Although it is called an experiment, the processing itself is not particularly special.
So what is experimental is the idea.
In this case, we deliberately made the pattern invisible, which may seem pointless or even pointless.
But I think this has resulted in some interesting pants that I haven't seen very often.
I think it's important to enjoy wasteful things, In the world of mù_, I want to express my individuality. This is something I would like to express through mù_lab.
CLOWN PANTS LEOPARD / mù_ lab.#001
Colour: GRAYISH BROWN
Size: M/L
Price: ¥33,000
▼Product page here
CLOWN PANTS LEOPARD / mù_lab.#001