Denim is an item that designer Kimura has a strong attachment to.
Not only does Kimura himself own a collection of over 100 pairs of denim, but he has also been involved in clothing design for over 20 years, during which time he has been in contact with so many fabrics that there has been no season in which he hasn't thought about denim.
It's truly an inseparable relationship.
These PIN TUCK DENIM TROUSERS embody the essence of mù_ , which is that "the same garment can look different depending on the wearer," and are an item that combines ruggedness and elegance, reflecting Kimura's love for denim.
-My feelings about denim
Kimura: I started getting interested around the time of the vintage boom when I was in high school, and I bought a lot of stuff from then on.
At first, I didn't have much knowledge, so I bought quite a few things that were said to be valuable vintage items.
Since then, after starting my clothing-making job and visiting fabric stores and sewing factories, I've come into contact with countless fabrics, and my personal values regarding denim have changed.
Rather than focusing on the general vintage value of something like "a certain type of item from the 19XXs," I've started to place more emphasis on whether something looks cool to me and whether it suits me.
When it comes to color fading, what's important is whether or not it's to my liking. I tend to like the borderline between "cool" and "not cool."
As is the case with myself, I think it's a deeply meaningful item that can be enjoyed within each person's unique values, and above all, it's an item that has been close to me for over 30 years, both in my personal life and at work, so I have strong feelings about it.
-What are the features of PIN TUCK DENIM TROUSERS?
Kimura: The core concept of this brand is the idea that "the same piece of clothing can look different depending on the person wearing it."
Therefore, instead of just creating an authentic 5- pocket denim, I aimed to incorporate elements of slacks, creating something that "looks different depending on the viewer's perspective."
We also collaborated with a fabric supplier to develop original fabrics, and we pursued details and gimmicks in great detail.
From the front, it gives off an atmosphere similar to that of dress pants, while from the back, it looks like it has five pockets.
For those who regularly wear denim, it can be worn within the definition of denim, and for those who don't usually wear denim, it's an item that makes them think, "I might as well try this."
-About the original denim fabric
Kimura: A few years ago, I was shown thread made on a spinning machine from the 1950s at a fabric store, and that image has stayed in my mind ever since.
Because it's an old machine, the speed at which it twists the yarn is about 1/3 that of modern spinning machines.
This makes the yarn slightly less tightly twisted, and when washed, it feels like the twist comes back a little, resulting in a soft texture.
But it wasn't just soft; it also had a certain strength to it.
When I was trying to create a denim fabric that was representative of the mù_ brand this time, I wanted to use a denim that looked heavy but felt soft, so I consulted with a fabric supplier, and they showed me a fabric woven on a shuttle loom using this yarn.
The fabric made with old-fashioned spinning machines and looms had a vintage-like feel, which I personally didn't dislike, but what I wanted to express with mù_ wasn't vintage, but rather a mix of 5- pocket and slacks elements, so it didn't quite match my vision.
Therefore, by deliberately having this yarn woven on a modern loom rather than a shuttle loom, we were able to reduce the roughness and create a fabric that combines a rustic atmosphere with elegance.
The next thing is the color tone.
It's hard to explain in detail because it's a matter of feeling, but I wanted to bring out the bluish tone typical of denim and the depth typical of slacks, matching the texture of this fabric, so I thought a lot about the balance when deciding on the color.
- Slacks element
Kimura: First of all, the iconic feature is the pin tuck that looks like a crease line.
This is true for the entire denim, but the fine stitching used throughout gives this pin tuck a delicate appearance.
However, if the tuck opens up and stands out too much, it will no longer look like a crease line, so we've also devised a way to hold it down by placing the belt loop on top of the tuck.
And also, how it looks when rolled up.
Because it's denim, if you roll it up normally, the white of the weft thread will show when it's folded back, creating a strong contrast.
Also, because the pin tucks extend all the way to the hem, they shift when folded over, which is uncomfortable.
So, although it's more work, I made the hem a facing using the same fabric, and by eliminating the pin tuck in that area, I achieved an elegant look similar to wearing double-pleated trousers.
Also, by making them slanted pockets, I think they will look more like slacks from the front.
- Denim-like quality
Kimura: Since it's denim to begin with, we're not doing anything particularly unusual, but while the front has an elegant feel, the back is designed to look like an authentic 5- pocket style.
We made the back pockets larger and placed them slightly lower than usual to add a touch of a looser look.
In addition, the front is designed to look like classic slacks, and the coin pocket is intentionally included to retain the five- pocket element.
Another thing that makes denim what it is, is the way it changes over time.
One of the characteristics of this yarn is that, because it's made on old machinery, it has a natural, slub-like texture.
Modern machines create unevenness through computer control, resulting in a calculated vertical drape. However, the yarn made with this spinning machine has a natural unevenness, creating a soft, vertical drape reminiscent of the old days.
The color of the stitching is also a grayish brown, which is the brand's accent color, rather than the golden brown used in vintage denim. It blends in and isn't noticeable at first, but as the denim fades, the contrast becomes more pronounced, and the piece develops a more denim-like appearance over time.
- What other aspects did you pay particular attention to?
Kimura: It's a small detail, but as a playful element or a customizable gimmick, we've added a small additional loop under the right belt loop, so you can hook carabiners or keychains to it.
You can hook it onto a belt loop, but that can be a bit awkward when you try to put the hooked-on keys, etc., in your pocket. That's why we deliberately adopted an additional loop that doesn't secure the bottom, so you can use it in a variety of ways.
-What brand identity does the PIN TUCK DENIM TROUSERS express?
Kimura: Personally, I love vintage denim, so I wear it often and own a lot of it.
I've made a lot of vintage-style denim items for work in the past.
However, when considering it within the framework of the mù_ brand, the most important thing is how interesting it will be when combined with the items that will be released in the future.
Instead of just looking like a denim-on-denim outfit, the addition of a tailored trouser element increases the wearer's freedom of expression.
That's what makes these jeans a perfect match for the brand's philosophy of "being completed by the wearer."
Personally, I also want to create denim that I don't already own.
Because I love vintage denim, I wanted to retain the good qualities of vintage while updating it with something new. I think this item embodies the brand mù_ 's desire to express itself, combining those two ideas.
Pin Tuck Denim Trousers
Color: Indigo
Size: S/M/L/XL
Price: ¥30,800
▼Click here for the product page
Pin Tuck Denim Trousers, Indigo