Denim is an item that designer Kimura has a strong attachment to.
Not only does Kimura himself have a collection of over 100 pairs of denim, but in his more than 20 years of experience in clothing design, he has come into contact with so many fabrics that there hasn't been a season when he doesn't think about denim.
It is truly an inseparable relationship.
These PIN TUCK DENIM TROUSERS are an item that combines ruggedness and elegance, expressing mù_ 's image that "the same clothes can look different depending on who is wearing them," and are imbued with Kimura's love for denim.
-Thoughts on denim
Kimura: I started to get interested in vintage items during the boom when I was in high school, and I started buying a lot from then on.
Although I didn't have much knowledge at first, I bought quite a few items that were considered valuable as vintage items.
After I started working in clothing design, I frequented fabric stores and sewing factories and came into contact with countless fabrics, and my own view of denim began to change.
Rather than focusing on typical vintage values such as what era it is from, I have started to place more importance on whether something looks cool to me and whether it suits me.
Even with color fading, what's important is whether it's to my taste, and I like things that are on the fine line between "cool" and "uncool."
Just like myself, I believe it is a profound item that can be enjoyed according to each person's own values, and it is an item that has remained close to me for over 30 years, both in my personal and professional life, so I have a strong attachment to it.
-What are the features of PIN TUCK DENIM TROUSERS?
Kimura: The underlying idea behind this brand is that the same clothes can look different depending on who is wearing them.
So rather than just creating an authentic five- pocket denim, we added elements of slacks and aimed for it to "look different depending on the angle from which it is viewed."
We also worked with a fabric store to develop original fabrics, and we paid close attention to the details and gimmicks.
When viewed from the front, they look somewhat like slacks, but when viewed from the back, they look like they have five pockets.
It's an item that people who regularly wear denim can wear within the definition of denim, and even people who don't normally wear denim might be inspired to give it a try.
-About the original denim fabric
Kimura: A few years ago, I was in a fabric store and was shown some yarn made on a spinning machine from the 1950s , and that experience has stayed in my mind ever since.
Because it is an old machine, the speed at which it twists the yarn is about one-third that of modern spinning machines.
This gives the yarn a slightly loose twist, and after washing the twist goes back a little, giving it a soft texture.
But the yarn wasn't just soft; it also had a certain strength to it.
When I was creating denim that was characteristic of the mù_ brand this time, I wanted to use a denim that was heavy looking but soft, so I was discussing this with a fabric store, who showed me fabric that had been woven on a shuttle loom using this thread.
The fabric, made on old-fashioned spinning machines and old-fashioned looms, has a vintage look that I personally don't dislike, but what I wanted to express with mù_ was not vintage, but a mix of five- pocket and slacks elements, so it was different to what I had in mind.
Therefore, instead of using a shuttle loom, we deliberately had the yarn woven on a modern loom, thereby reducing the roughness and creating a fabric that combines a rough feel with elegance.
The next thing is the color.
It's difficult to explain in detail because it's a subjective aspect, but I wanted to bring out the blueness of denim and the depth of slacks in a way that matched the look of the fabric, so I gave careful thought to finding that balance when deciding on the color.
-Slacks elements
Kimura: The first iconic feature is the pin tucks that look like creases.
This denim is stitched with fine needles throughout, which gives the pin tucks a delicate appearance.
However, if the tucks are too open and stand up, the crease line will no longer be visible, so we've devised a way to hold the belt loops down by bringing them above the tucks.
And also how it looks when rolled up.
Since it is denim, normally when you roll it up, the white weft thread will be exposed when you fold it back, creating a strong contrast.
Also, because there are pin tucks all the way to the hem, when you fold it back the pin tucks shift and look unsightly.
Although it takes some effort, we turned the hem into the same fabric and removed the pin tucks in that area to create a classy look, as if the slacks were worn double-layered.
Also, by adding slant pockets, I think they will look more like slacks from the front.
-Denim feel
Kimura: Since it's denim to begin with, there's nothing particularly unusual about it, but while the front has a refined feel, the back has an authentic five- pocket look.
The back pockets are larger and placed a little lower than usual to give the garment a slightly looser look.
Additionally, a coin pocket has been added to the front to give the look of slacks, while still retaining the five- pocket element.
Another thing that makes denim unique is the way it changes over time.
A characteristic of this yarn is that it has a natural slubby feel, as it was woven on an old machine.
With modern machines, unevenness is created using computer control, resulting in a calculated vertical fall, but the yarn made with this spinning machine has a natural unevenness, so it has a traditional soft vertical fall.
The colour of the stitching is not the golden brown used on vintage denim, but rather a greyish brown, which is the brand's accent colour. So it blends in and isn't noticeable at first, but as the denim fades the contrast emerges, and it takes on a more denim-like appearance over time.
-What other aspects did you pay particular attention to?
Kimura: It's a small detail, but as a fun element or customization gimmick, there's a small additional loop under the right belt loop where you can hang a carabiner or key chain.
You could hook it onto a belt loop, but that would make it a bit difficult to put keys or other items away in your pocket, so we decided to use an additional loop that doesn't secure the bottom, allowing it to be used in a variety of ways.
-What does PIN TUCK DENIM TROUSERS represent as a brand?
Kimura: Personally, I love vintage denim, so I wear it often and have a lot of it.
I have made a lot of vintage-like denim pieces for work so far.
However, when thinking within the framework of the mù_ brand, the most important thing is how interesting it will be when combined with future items.
Rather than simply looking like a denim outfit, the inclusion of elements of slacks gives the wearer greater freedom.
This is the kind of denim that matches the brand's philosophy of "it is complete depending on the wearer."
Personally, I also want to make denim that I don't own.
It is because I love vintage denim that I wanted to preserve the good aspects of vintage denim while updating it to something new, and I think this item is a realization of what I want to express as the brand mù_ .
PIN TUCK DENIM TROUSERS
Colour: INDIGO
Size: S/M/L/XL
Price: ¥30,800
▼Product page here
PIN TUCK DENIM TROUSERS INDIGO