"Clothes are made from fabric"
We have created a fabric that embodies this concept of mù_ in its purest form.
It's called "SUPIMA COTTON LOOP BACK".
This is an original fabric that was jointly developed by designer Kimura and a knitter from Wakayama, with whom he has had a relationship of over 15 years.
This time, two types of items will be released using this fabric: a sweatshirt and a hoodie.
The surface has a vintage ruggedness, while the back has a cashmere-like smoothness.
The result is a garment that is typical of mù_, combining opposing elements in a single piece of fabric.
-What made you decide to make this fabric?
Kimura: It's a fabric I've always wanted to make.
Although it looks rough and rugged, the moment you put it on you'll be surprised at how soft it is. I wanted to express this contrast through sweatshirts and hoodies.
Usually, this type of fleece fabric has good quality fabric on the outside and cheap fabric on the inside to keep costs down.
But I did the opposite.
The front has a rough look, while the back is made of high-quality fabric.
The reason is that we value the feeling of excitement when wearing our clothes.
-Please tell us about the surface fabric.
Kimura: For the outer layer, we use air-spun yarn, which has a hollow center during the twisting process.
Furthermore, since it is a slub yarn, it has a knotty, uneven texture.
The air-spun yarn creates a dry, crisp, and completely oil-free look.
I wanted to create a vintage, rugged feel, like it was made with old machines.
-What's on the back?
Kimura: The back side is made of Supima, which has long fibers.
We wanted to create a fabric that feels as smooth as cashmere and gives the feeling of wearing high-quality cotton.
This difference between the front and back is very important, and the soft feel makes it feel lighter when you wear it than when you hold it in your hand.
That's why it's so comfortable to wear.
-I heard that this fabric was made by a knitter in Wakayama.
Kimura: Yes. I have been working with this craftsman for over 15 years, since my previous brand.
I like coming up with ideas for various fabrics, and I always want to surprise the craftsmen, so I suggest things that are not normally done.
However, to actually make it a reality, I need the understanding of the craftsman, and it would be difficult unless the craftsman understood my intuitive ideas.
Knitting in particular is not easy as it is a complex subject, but this person has always been very good at turning my ideas into reality and creates things that are even better than I could have imagined. I have the utmost confidence in her.
This time too, when we spoke, he sympathized with my idea and said, "It seems like we could create something interesting, so I'd love to give it a try."
I truly appreciate it.
-I heard you have a strong preference for black.
Kimura: That's right. When both the knitter and I came up with the idea and came up with the idea of making a fabric like this, we both shared the same idea of "Well, to make the most of this fabric, we want to add a really deep black."
Compared to synthetic fibers or wool, the black in cotton knitting like this tends to be lighter.
This time, I wanted a deep, rich black to create a rich feel, so I had it dyed at a dye factory that could do that.
This is not something that can be done anywhere, and even in Japan it can only be done in a limited number of dye factories.
This factory is very particular about the way the black comes out, and is used by famous domestic and international brands.
-Why did you create two styles, a sweatshirt and a hoodie, using this fabric?
Kimura: When I thought about what items would best bring out the appeal of this fabric, I decided it was sweatshirts and hoodies.
Because both are classic items, the difference in fabric is directly noticeable.
Also, these two types were not conceived separately, but rather crossed over during the development process to arrive at this shape.
To express this, we have deliberately placed the kangaroo pocket that is typically found on hoodies on the sweatshirt, and added pockets on the sides of the hoodie.
HIGH NECK SWEAT SHIRT
-About the silhouette of the sweatshirt
Kimura: The width is large, but the length is short.
When considering how it pairs with wide pants, this balance looks the best.
The ribbing width varies at the neck and cuffs, making it simple yet somehow unusual.
I wanted to give it that kind of complexity.
-What was the intention behind adding a kangaroo pocket to the sweatshirt?
Kimura: As I said earlier, I didn't create the hoodie and sweatshirt as separate items, but rather I wanted to express that they were born from the same idea and crossover.
Also, kangaroo pockets have a sporty and casual image.
Combined with the rough and rugged feel of the fabric, it has a casual feel, but the contrast with the luxurious deep black makes it enjoyable.
SWEAT HOODIE
-About the silhouette of the hoodie
Kimura: It's oversized, giving it an outerwear-like presence.
Not only is it large, but by adding a rib to the side to make it neater, the larger parts stand out, creating a three-dimensional silhouette.
-What are your food preferences?
Kimura: There is also a rib around the neck, which helps the hood maintain its shape.
This setting is what makes the hood look puffy and three-dimensional when worn.
-About the side pockets
Kimura: The hoodie has pockets on the sides that serve as hand warmers.
It's practical enough that you can wear it alone when going outside, and although it's a hoodie, it has the feel of an outer layer.
I wanted it to have both the casualness of a hoodie and the presence of an outer layer.
-Finally, please tell us your thoughts on this fabric.
Kimura: I think this fabric best embodies the brand's philosophy that "clothes are made from fabric."
It was created by a craftsman we have been working with for over 15 years, and a dyeing factory that specializes in black.
This is a fabric that we can confidently recommend.
It feels rugged when you pick it up, and soft the moment you put it on.
I want people to experience that gap for themselves.
SWEAT HOODIE / SUPIMA COTTON LOOP BACK
Color: Deep Black
Size: M/L/XL
Price: ¥35,200
HIGH NECK SWEAT SHIRT / SUPIMA COTTON LOOP BACK
Color: Deep Black
Size: M/L/XL
Price: ¥30,800
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