Kimura has been involved with denim for over 20 years. During that time, he has worked on over 200 pairs of denim, including processing. When making denim for mù_, Kimura chose Japanese fabric.
Though it looks rugged, it's surprisingly soft the moment you put it on. This unexpected softness is created by the weft yarn, spun on a 1950s spinning machine. The looseness of the yarn produced by the old machinery imbues the fabric with two seemingly contradictory qualities: heavy ounce yet soft.
And there's another sentiment embedded in this denim.
"I want what I'm making now to become vintage in the future."
Kimura says.
By deliberately avoiding the classic selvedge method and instead using modern machinery and techniques, he aims to create denim that can only be made in this era.
-This is the second pair of denim pants. Could you start by explaining the differences from the previous model?
Kimura: The previous Pintuck Denim Trousers had a relatively clean silhouette, making the most of the fabric's softness.
This time, it's the opposite; by making the silhouette wider, we've brought out the fabric's drape even more. The excess fabric against the body translates into softness.
That's the kind of denim I wanted to create.
-Could you re-explain the characteristics of this fabric?
Kimura: We use yarn spun on a 1950s spinning machine for the weft yarn, and yarns made on old machines tend to have a slightly weaker twist.
By utilizing this characteristic, the fabric itself is firm, but it has a softer texture than regular denim.
It looks rugged, but when you wear it, it's surprisingly soft. That contrast is the most distinctive feature of this fabric.
-What was the reason for deliberately not using selvedge?
Kimura: I really like selvedge, and I think it's valuable.
However, when it came to designing myself, precisely because selvedge is gaining global attention right now, I wanted to deliberately avoid it.
Instead of selvedge, we use double-width denim and employ marrow-lock stitching for the inside lock finish, creating a side appearance similar to selvedge but with modern techniques.
It's more of an homage or a respectful reinterpretation, trying something new.
-Please also tell us about the idea of "the next vintage."
Kimura: I don't think the people who made what we now call vintage intended for them to become vintage.
Things made for practical use were handed down over time and became vintage. If that's the case, then things made in this era with modern machinery and techniques might have the potential to be called vintage 100 years from now.
That's why I deliberately chose not to use the old selvedge method, but rather a manufacturing process that is only possible now.
-Please also tell us about your particularity regarding color.
Kimura: Japanese denim often has deep indigo shades with a hint of green, but what I like is a classic American look, with a slight reddish tint.
This time, I chose a reddish-blue color, but also gave it depth so it doesn't look too light.
The softness and lightness are expressed by the reddish hue, and the rugged substantiality is expressed by the depth of the color.
It's like I've captured both of those elements within a single indigo color.
-Finally, how would you like people to wear this denim?
Kimura: The way denim fades changes depending on the wearer's lifestyle, doesn't it?
Whether it's the fading on the knees or the whiskers. That's a necessity born from偶然 (chance), and I find that interesting.
So, I want this denim to develop its own unique character by being worn for a long time. It's not a classic, but precisely because of that, it should become something truly unique.
WIDE TAPERED DENIM TROUSERS
colour：INDIGO
size：S/M/L/XL
price：¥35,200
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WIDE TAPERED DENIM TROUSERS
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